Naxos

My wife and I arrived on the island of Naxos on the Bluestar from Santorini the evening before, drawn by the promise of crystal clear waters and ancient ruins, to spend a few days exploring before heading to Mykonos. Outside of Crete, Naxos is my favorite island in the Cyclades. Less of a party destination than Mykonos, and not as expensive and manicured as Santorini. The island is one of the Aegean’s perfect experiences. It’s easy to see why Homer took so long to return from here.

We did little that first night other than get settled into our hotel before heading out to the island’s main feature, Apollo’s Gate, to sit and watch with other visitors as the setting sun pierced the opening of the temple as it sank beneath the horizon while we contemplated the beauty of it all. But, oh, the next day. What an adventure we would have.

The late morning drifted by as we swam in the lagoon below the gate, the Aegean stretching out beyond the breakwater in a deep blue expanse while the city of Naxos provided a pure white contrast to the cerulean sky.

After lunch we walked the streets and alleys, going deeper into the whiteness — bougainvillea bursting red against the marble and stone buildings, blue doors and white bordered granite streets beckoning us deeper into the city’s embrace. We eventually, and happily, arrived at the top of a large hill and the Archaeological Museum of Naxos and…